Solomon Soddon

It has rained for 3 weeks, 5 days and 8 hours - almost non-stop and almost biblical - and the sound of ‘rain on roof’ is becoming strangely hypnotic. However, despite flood warnings from our Italian neighbours and the sight of the eco warriors on the hill building what looks like an ark, we decide to pop into Arezzo to look at the Christmas lights and do a spot of shopping.  We put a bucket under the drip that’s coming in from the bedroom ceiling and head off. 

It’s late afternoon and Arezzo is ablaze with festive cheer and, despite the rain, a good old-fashioned Christmas passeggiata is in full swing.  White lights are strung across the narrow streets leading up to the main Piazza Grande and, while the lower town is buzzing with activity, Vasari’s loggia and the beautiful square up in the old town are strangely deserted. The flagstones gleam wetly in the lamplight and footsteps echo in the chilly dusk. 

Traders, who have spent the day setting up for the weekend’s antique fair, have bundled up their treasures under drab tarpaulin wraps and gone to ground. The last, and most conscientious, check the ties and straps for security before heading silently to the bar.

That this vast array of antiquities is left untended overnight is amazing, but there is something quite forlorn about it too, with the empty darkening square and the unattended tables waiting, solemn and sodden, in the rain.

Back on Corso Italia, gifts are carefully chosen and lavishly wrapped. Little hands clutch warm paper cones of roasted chestnuts and, although the rain comes and goes in fierce gusts, all seems well with the world. Unless the bedroom ceiling’s fallen in, that is.

Best thing I ate:
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire

I have to say that there is something wonderfully ‘winter wonderland’ about buying roast chestnuts from a street vendor’s blazing brazier, although the ones we bought were mighty expensive. Far cheaper and much more fun is to invest in a traditional chestnut roasting pan (a frying pan with holes in the bottom) and then, providing you have an open fire or wood burning stove, you can while away the cosy winter evenings roasting your own.  

Cut a little slash in the skins of your chestnuts, fill the pan with a single layer and roast them amongst the glowing embers. They will take approximately 10-15 minutes, depending on the heat of your fire.  Remember to give the pan a good shake every now and then to avoid too much charring. They make a fantastically seasonal fireside snack or a fine dessert, paired with a slab of Gorgonzola and a glass of luscious Vin Santo which seems to intensify the sweet, smoky flavour.
Let it rain, let it rain, let it rain…

Comments

[Heidi]

The first time I had roasted chestnuts was when I was living in Italy. Now, they always remind me of Italy, not that I have them here in the states...maybe when I hear the "chestnuts roasting on an open fire..." song.

I also remember being impressed with the presipio in Padova and how it had weather and lighting to show changes from the day to night and back again. Did they have thunderstorms with lightning in Bethlehem?? It didn't matter because I found it all just magical.

[Isabel]

Oh my Dear Amanda, even if I have been MIA from the blog world for many weeks now (too busy with the moving to my new "old" house), how could I not find time to leave you a note after seeing all those delicious roasted chestnuts. We also make them at home over the fire here in the States, but I miss the ones they sell on the streets of Lisbon, where the smell curls around the corner and seems to magically find your nose.
I have fond memories of those paper cones filled to the brim, the street venders and the glowing embers. I would buy them almost every day on my way to school and take my time savoring those minutes when the chestnuts melted in my mouth and the city became extra magical...THANK YOU!

[Vita Lenta nel Bel Paese]

Cara,

Thanks for the Arezzo Christmas passeggiata! What an ambiance - despite the bad weather. Wonderful pictures! It is clearing up today. Hopefully it will stay for the Christmas concerts, midnight mass, the candle procession and the Christmas Day Pranzo at the village restaurant... Bacione, Ingrid

[Amanda@ A Tuscan View....]

Still raining! Honestly it's getting kind of freaky now. Sorry Arlene. Sorry Judith. I guess I brought it on!

SPF, so glad to see you here. Let me tell you that a leaking roof isn't cool in Italy either!

Erin, your abstinence surprises me!

Sally, you're so sweet. I love white lights too.

Diana, This comment made me smile. Why not send the Barolo over to me, I'll stick the labels back on and return them. Maybe...

Antonina, that chestnut soup sounds great, the leak is still there drip, drip, drip...

Anne, I have had a bad hair day for nearly a month! I hate rain.

[Antonina]

The rain on the roof always makes me wistful at times, reflection and also checking for leaks, I hope yours did not grow. as I understand it water always finds the easiest root to travel, so that the leak is not always directly over head as one may think at times. It can come in from a side wall joint.Going to town looks and sounds lovely. the wonderful Christmas festa lights strung across the roads and the stall's ready and bundled up for the antique show to come. Never let a little rain dampen your spirits. Take a page from the Scots its fine soft rain, when in fact the complete opposite.
The aroma of roasting chestnuts by the street vendors gets my mouth watering, thoughts of Chestnut soup creamy and thick, chestnuts with sprouts and bacon bits, chestnuts dipped in chocolate. I need to stop and hit the super market now!

[diana]

I am getting heavily into denial. Denial such as to deny that 150 centimeters of snow followed by 6 days straight of pelting rain could have a negative impact on our flat roof storage area (have not looked in there at the 2 tv sets, 2 air conditioning units and paperwork from the last seven years), or our to be renovated wine cellar (have not looked in there at the Barolo bottles losing their labels). I am not even puzzling over why there is not electricity at the gate a the moment, could it be that the wiring is all caught and washed raw under the Piemontese version of Niagara Falls? Who knows, who cares. I love denial. There's always tomorrow to freak out like a maniac, get desperate and go find a job at the mall.

The chestnuts roasting on an open fire look fabulous, Amanda. Much better than the mouldy mandarins which I forgot in the trunk of my car before Armageddon arrived.

No, really, I'm fine.

[casalba]

I love your posts. What isn't there to comment on except praise you again (and again).

I remember the first time I saw Italian Christmas lights. It was in Milan, the same year Oxford Street had those rubbish lasers. In Milan they were all white. So simple, but far more elegant and effective than our gaudy multi-coloured efforts.

[Judith in Umbria]

I hope your command to let it rain holds no universal water. I'm fed up. My little river sounds like Niagara.

[nyc/caribbean ragazza]

Basta with this rain. It stopped on Saturday and I went out to look at the very high Tiber and take some photos.

Now it's pouring again.

Nice photos. Arezzo is one of the places I'm looking forward to visiting.

[erin :: the olive notes]

rain....no fun! I've been reading all about it, and it sounds horrible :(

BUT...the chestnuts on the other hand sound AMAZING! We miss those, and almost bought some from a vendor in NYC last weekend, but didn't. And now, I think Chris really regrets it :)

[somepinkflowers]

amazing photos...

i wonder this--->
to live in Italy with a roof that leaks
seems Exotic and Acceptable
somehow.
i think to myself,
"self, i could live with that."

in the states a
leaky roof would seem not as cool.

you lucky thing to be There,
Leak and All.

:-)

i have never, ever had this---->
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire.

we just do not seem to do those in Florida.
we have oranges by the sea,
i guess.

{{ i always love your Best Thing I Ate section }}

[anne]

Strange about the rain, you kind of get used to the noise...not the actual rain :-)

How odd that the antiquities are left out over night..that would not happen in the UK.