Wine heaven

There comes a time when the wine finally runs out.  That doesn’t necessarily mean that you are the one who drank it all, but it does mean that you have to get some more.

Around here the best (and most economical) way to buy wine, from ordinary table wine to the posh stuff, is to buy it from a ‘cantina’ (cellar or winery). You can buy it by the bottle, and in many cases you can also buy it ‘sfuso’ or loose.  A visit to one of these places is a treat in itself, especially if it’s one near the wine heaven, Montepulciano.

There is something rarified about this noble little town, high on it’s ridge, midway between Florence and Rome. Flurries of classical music escaping from the Accademia della Musica echo through the alleyways and the air is diffused with the aroma of fermentation as thousands of barrels ‘cook’ gently in the vast cellars below the streets. 

I grew up around wine.  My dad was a wine importer and it was both his business and his pleasure.  Most of our family holidays were based around the wine regions that interested him, be they France, Spain or Italy. It was normal for us, as children, to play ‘catch’ amongst the vines or hide-and-seek down in the musty cellars.  I remember my sister and I giggling and lunging at each other from behind the barrels as my mum and dad talked earnestly with wine producers, sniffing and slurping, dad taking notes and swapping cards, loading the samples and freebies into the back of the car.  Later, as surly teenagers, we were allowed to join in those exquisite tastings, a privilege that was always guaranteed to lighten the mood.

 
The smell and atmosphere of a wine cellar, whether full of ageing oak or shiny stainless steel is intrinsically woven through my memories of my father.  As with so many things, I wish I had listened more intently and asked more questions.  My knowledge of wine is now, sadly, missing my ‘personal expert’ but my enthusiasm, which I inherited from him, remains undimmed.

One of the things my dad was best at was sniffing out a good affordable wine. He wasn’t a wine snob, he loved it all.  During the 60’s and 70’s it was buyers like my father who expanded the English palate for wine by importing drinkable, but inexpensive, table wines from France, Spain and Italy and gradually pushed the ubiquitous sweet German white wines to the back of the supermarket shelves.   He liked to buy wine from small, creative, independent producers who grew wines with ‘personalities’ imparted by a combination of climate, soil and grape variety.   “Wine”, he liked to say, “is alive”.  One of the only things we can consume after 200 years, still changing and evolving, waiting for the pull of the cork.  In one sense it’s just a drink, and yet it is capable of engaging our senses and imagination, it’s depths and complexities can communicate something intense and beautiful.

The ‘cantina’ that we visited was Ercolani located just outside the walls of Montepulciano. We tried some wonderfully plush vintages of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano before opting for the youngest (and cheapest) one which we bought ‘sfuso’ in large 5 litre demijohns.  We also tried their deliciously sticky Vin Santo and some mind-bending Grappa, but that’s another story.

 
The best thing I drank today;
see above...

Comments

[maryann]

It all sounds so..romantic :)

[Isabel]

My childhood was also blessed with the magic of the vineyards. Even though we lived in the city, my parents loved to teach us a love for the land during weekends and school vacations. My paternal grandfather had a lot of vineyards and sold a great part of his grapes for the production of Porto wine. This city girl had lot of fun on weekends, especially in September, picking up grapes and stepping on them in huge cement tanks. We had such great experiences my brother and I. Thank you for reminding me of how wonderful it is to walk the vineyards at sunset listening to the crickets and cicadas. Lovely post!

[Judith in Umbria]

My father liked Canadian Club or Four Roses with sugar and hot water or with ginger ale. This has not helped me in life one bit.
He did however eat well and that has been of great use to me.

[Ingrid in Umbria]

Cara Amanda,

Grazie per il giro! Foto stupenda! You are in a fantastic region for wines. So many fattorie to visit. Envy, envy!!!! Our wine zone is smaller - production more local. But quality is good and prices good value for money. Bacione, Ingrid

[Antonina]

My dad always had two large green demijohns under the back stairs the had green plastic faux wicker looking covers. On Sundays he'd he'd lead an unsuspecting son in law there to help him transfer the wine into bottles for the Sunday lunch.Of course the small enclosed space and the fumes wafting up, it was dad who ended up carrying the bottles to the kitchen while the other was sitting on the bottom stairs holding his spinning head.Then inform either myself or my sister ..go see what's wrong with your husband...

[Susan]

We are coming to Italy later this month and you information on wine will be most helpful. You have a great blog!

[nyc/caribbean ragazza]

I can just smell the wine as I read your post.

Beautifully written.

[Brit' Gal Sarah]

My father was the wines and spirits buyer for the Co-op in the 70's and so I had very similar family holidays. I also remember playing amongst the vines, being given a watered down taste and the coolness of the cellars. Like you I wish I had soaked up a little more expert knowledge, but then I was only 10! Thanks for bringing back the happy memories

[casalba]

This is exactly the place where Julian's post which started "I know it shouldn't happen like this.." happened to me!

We went along to buy some wine and, out of the blue, were treated to a vintage car rally and a flag throwing spectacular by chaps in medieval costumes.