August in Italy is a strange month, it has its own lazy charm but life, as we know it, shuts down. It packs it’s bags and clears off to the coast, or the mountains, or ‘nonna’s farm’ in Puglia. One by one the builders and the plumbers disappear into thin, hot August air until they are all gone.
For a while the cement mixer continues it’s lonely lament with only Marito for company until he too throws in the trowel and accepts that everyone needs a break. My excuse for lack of blogging is simple, ‘ferragosto’.
You start to notice the mass exodus at the beginning of the month as the discrete and irritating little sign ‘Chiuso per ferie’ appears more and more frequently; the barbers, the forno, the take-away pizza place, one by one they all succumb.
The motorways are suddenly filled with small Italian cars packed with people and their plastic bags all desperately heading for somewhere else and, quietly watching all this summer mayhem, quite still on her plinth or in her niche, stands the serene and ubiquitous Madonna of the roadside.
There are some more of these marvellous Madonnas in the sidebar, I hope you like them as much as I do.
The best thing I ate:
Succo di Mele
On the way to Castiglione del Lago is an apple farm, Az Agr. Mele del Trasimeno. The fruit, glowing rosily between dark leaves, can be seen on the beautiful espaliered trees from the roadside. It’s a small organic concern, they grow apples and they sell apples and, as luck would have it, they sell apple juice too.
But this is no ordinary juice, it can be quite changeable, sometimes clear and golden and at other times almost pink and cloudy. It’s aromatic and full of lovely old-fashioned apple flavours; a heady mix of sunny fruit with a hint of aniseed and almonds. It is as deep and rich and sweetly complicated as any wine might be. I like it best after lunch, give me a small cold glass of succo di mele with a crumbly wedge of parmesan and I’ll happily pass on dessert.
Where to get it;
Az Agr Mele del Trasimeno
SS71 Umbro Casentinese
Loc. San Fatucchio
Castiglione Del Lago
PG. Tel 075 9589722
Being from Portugal, I DO KNOW what you talking about. August is the month everything STOPS, indeed...lol...
And if you have any legal paperwork or official stuff to do that month...GOOD LUCK! Everyone is gone with their "plastic bags" ;)
Posted by: Isabel | September 08, 2008 at 12:57 AM
And I'm following Karen on September 11. I can hardly wait. Lining up my own plastic bags. Your blog just makes me all the more eager to get there!
Posted by: Leslie M. | September 06, 2008 at 05:24 AM
Your blog is warm, endearing, funny and eloquent. I also love the visual impact - some of the photos of food are just stunning. I'm so glad I stumbled upon your view of Italy from Umbria, and your profound sense of wonderment and appreciation, mixed with great humour, for where you live.
Posted by: Rosaria | September 04, 2008 at 09:27 AM
Found your blog through a friend the other day. I love it! It's nice to be taken way for a little day trip every now and then. Thanks,
Michele
Posted by: Michele Lee | September 03, 2008 at 11:46 PM
yes
yes YES
to all of this!!
:-)
i have only been in italy once in august
and
it was as you explained
in this posting...
thanks ever~so for reminding me of the little signs on the doors.
and
this----->a crumbly wedge of parmesan
with apple juice {{or a really fresh apple}} IS sometimes the best dessert
even if it is here
in the states...
thanks for reminding me of that, too...
and blue cheese
with a fresh pear...
yum.
isn't life grand!
Posted by: somepinkflowers | September 02, 2008 at 09:44 PM
Hey Mandy & Julian;
We were just thinking of you and thought we should look you up. We miss the estate terribly and your blog helps to soothe the sadness. Can't wait to come back in November.
Dobbiamo mangiare insieme in novembre quando siamo li.
Posted by: Susanna di Poderaccio | September 02, 2008 at 04:35 AM
I also love the roadside Madonna's, late summer in Italy - just that thought makes me smile :-)
Posted by: Brit' Gal SarBah | September 02, 2008 at 12:47 AM
Hey sista friend! I love fresh pressed apple juice (which will be readily available here soon). I'm in apple country.We call it cider. Any chance of some apple cake? haha ;)
Posted by: maryann | September 01, 2008 at 11:13 PM
Hey there! I just have to say a big thank you to everyone coming over here from Bleeding Espresso. We'd love to hear from you so please, please leave a comment. It's really easy to do and it's your comments that make this whole blog thing so great.
...and Michelle honey, 'you're simply the best'.
Posted by: Amanda @ A Tuscan view... | September 01, 2008 at 07:54 PM
This was my first summer in Italy and it was so strange to see the city of Rome clear out (except for the tourists). Today all the stores in my neighborhood are reopening. The repairman came by today to fix a light and he was tan and rested. Of course I had to wait three weeks for him to return. ha.
Posted by: nyc/carribean ragazza | September 01, 2008 at 02:27 PM
Hi Amanda,
Thank you for dropping by.
What a nice blog you have.
Will you be able to see Karen while she is in Italy? It would be so great!!
I remember the little alters all over Italy, with the Madonna's. It's nice to see then here and be reminded, so thank you.
Have a great day tomorrow!
Constance
Posted by: rochambeau | September 01, 2008 at 03:45 AM
I love apple juice and that looks like the *perfect* apple juice!
Posted by: Delina | August 31, 2008 at 12:02 PM
Go back to the blog and read figs and plums. Make fig and lemon conserve and you will never look back. Open the ****** windows and you won't have steam!
Posted by: Judith in Umbria | August 31, 2008 at 10:12 AM
oh, Ferragosto...how I miss thee.
We love finding the shrines all over...I call them 'holy spots'. The best one was in the Cinque Terre decorated with shells and a lobster skeleton. The photos are great.
I especially love the screen visitors :)
Posted by: erin :: the olive notes | August 29, 2008 at 08:18 PM
I love the Madonnas in the niches...what a lovely tradition! That slowing August pace must be very calming...unless of course you should happen to need a plumber :)
Will you see Karen on her trip to Italy I wonder??
Posted by: stephanie | August 29, 2008 at 04:55 PM
I am officially green with italian envy. I am packing my plastic bags soon and I'm there.
the apple juice
a blues festival (I happen to be a Shemeika Copeland fan...but mostly a blues fan
beautiful madonnas
Your blog is looking great!!!
I'm headed over on September 10th. Can't wait.
Posted by: Karen Cole | August 29, 2008 at 01:49 PM
Not preserving? Anything?
Posted by: Judith in Umbria | August 29, 2008 at 12:47 PM
I can't remember the last time I had a decent glass of apple juice - your description is making my mouth water.
I did enjoy the collection of Madonnas. Isn't it lovely when you turn a corner or look up and see a new one?
Posted by: casalba | August 29, 2008 at 08:46 AM