As usual we have a million things to do; lists, sub-lists, goals and deadlines and sometimes the hours just seems to slip away like sand. But something subtle is happening here, Summer is weaving her hot magical spell, the children are in holiday mode and it’s catching.
Arriving early in Castiglione del Lago to run some errands, we happen to see the early morning ferry to Isola Maggiore heading for the jetty. The water ripples silver in the sun and a cool reedy breeze blows gently from the lake. Before we even hear the pleading cries from our offspring, Marito and I have exchanged ‘the look’. Errands and lists will have to wait - we are getting on that ferry.
The spontaneity of it seems somehow thrilling and the children are half wild with excitement. The dog, a little unsure of his sea legs, is carried awkwardly on board and suddenly a very different kind of day is beginning to unfold.
Little waves slap against the wooden hull and the ferry heads out across the opalescent water to the island of Maggiore shimmering in the distance. There are only a handful of other voyagers on board and in the quiet of the early morning the chug and pull of the engine is mesmerising.
Of the three islands that rise out of Lake Trasimeno, Isola Maggiore (close to the northern shore), is the second largest and the only one permanently inhabited.
We disembark and walk up the landing stage past some huge and mutant looking cats towards the Islands only village. It is enchanting, the village consists entirely of a single street. The quayside houses are built of mellow crumbling stone and behind them is the shifting grey green of olive groves rising up to the Church of San Michele at the island’s highest point. Swallows swoop crazily in and out of the bell tower and the rasping cry of a thousand cicadas vibrates through the air.
Early in the morning (before the tourist rush) and with a population of less than 100, the place seems almost deserted - locked in time. We walk up a rough and scorching track, the sun now blazing overhead through the olives and past a wild, abandoned castle towards the church. The sweeping views out across the lake make up for all the predictable moaning and the rather unpredictable gradient. At last we reach a resting spot with a bench and a tap. We drink, splash the dog and stick our heads under the flow of icy water.
It is said that in 1211 St Francis landed here and stayed for a 40 day sojourn during which time all he ate was half a loaf. There is a little chapel marking the spot and a small Franciscan monastery. The thought of only half a loaf makes everyone’s stomach start to gnaw and we retrace our steps in search of breakfast.
Back in the timeless main street I am struck by how much it resembles a film set, with it’s fishing nets drying in the sun and, inside dimly lit doorways little old ladies on rickety chairs making lace.
Half way down the street we stop to look inside the church of Buon Gesu, it has some wonderful, peeling frescoes from which baroque cherubs smile down from the faded lapis with naïve exuberance.
We see battered goal posts tucked into an alley way and imagine the island at night with children playing football in a street free from the noises and dangers of cars, and the old boys calling to each other across the way. There is a solitary hotel and I find myself thinking, rather wistfully, how romantic it would be to stay the night. To watch the sun set over the lake and slip down behind the distance mountains while dusk whispers in the olive groves and the hush of darkness descends on this tiny enduring community.
The best thing I ate:
Gelato, gelato, gelato.
After much experimenting I have to say I have found my favourite (local) purveyor of the cold stuff. Caffé Venezia, via Porsenna, Chiusi. I have tried lots and lots of lovely flavours here from the dewy coral coloured watermelon through various intense and smoky chocolate combos to my personal favourite, the creamy pale and elusive ‘gorgonzola and honey’ (I promise you, it’s delicious!).
The maker of these divine confections is the wife of the owner, and she is, quite simply, gifted. She only uses proper ingredients (never any syrups) to produce the most sublime, silky gelato imaginable. At once rich, voluptuous and also completely addictive. At the moment I am averaging about one a day and I freely admit I’ve lost my head as well as my heart. Is that too many? Is that enough? How many is too many?
Where to get it:
See above, if there’s any left.
Ciao tutti
Thanks for all the lovely comments you really are very kind.
Scintilla - Ha! I haven't been using gelato as a meal substitute just adding it in as an extra!
For all you would be gorgonzola and honey fans, too late! We're on to the ricotta and cinnamon now.
Chris - Ben tornato! What's happened to your blog? We miss it.
Sally - LOL! As if there weren't enough of them already.
Posted by: amanda | July 11, 2008 at 10:47 AM
What a delicious post! Gorgonzola and honey sounds fabulously intriguing, but I have yet to meet a flavor I didn't like so I suppose I'm not a great critic ;)
Posted by: Michelle | Bleeding Espresso | July 10, 2008 at 04:24 PM
This blog post was utter bliss from the ferry to the gelato, I was just sucked into your beautiful world and carried away for a few minutes before bed - thank you
Posted by: Brit' Gal Sarah | July 10, 2008 at 07:46 AM
Another beautifully written post. Are you planning a book? Gorgonzola and honey? Yes, please.
Posted by: Sally | July 08, 2008 at 10:55 AM
These photos are absolutely gorgeous.
I love exploring places like that island, although I wouldn't want to confront the mutant cats. Very scary. :)
Posted by: nyc/carribean ragazza | July 07, 2008 at 06:12 PM
I drove the raccordo around Perugia last Tuesday and thought about you all. I knew you were somewhere around there, but not where. It was very lovely and dry that morning, but by night when I returned it was hellishly humid. Every light was haloed. 2 AM and all was very quiet.
Posted by: Judith in Umbria | July 07, 2008 at 10:16 AM
Sounds like an experience done as it should be! I enjoy yours and Julian's writing so much - so accurate yet full of imagery. You could have guessed that my favorite part was the mention of the Swallows. I don't know if they were Swifts or Swallows outside our apartment, but I'm pretty sure they behave similarly. I can't help but smile a distant smile when I think of them.
Posted by: Chris Lewis | July 06, 2008 at 11:43 PM
Your description of your day trip made me weep, it was beautify done. In fact one could imagine all the scenery in our minds eye almost making the photo's not necessary but welcomed none the less. Gelato made from the hands of a goddess, flavors that make our mouth's salivate. Lucky you four!
Posted by: Antonina | July 06, 2008 at 06:13 PM
Gorgonzola gelato. Now THAT I have to try! The island looks beautiful and your description makes me want to hop a plane. Hope you guys are doing well..well, you must be with all that gelato!
Posted by: Maryann | July 06, 2008 at 04:07 PM
Oh, save me some gorgonzola and honey! That sounds intriguing. It seems like you are making the most of the summer...I love those spontaneous trips.
The rest of those flower photos from Pieve are AMAZING! I would frame all of those patterns. Ci manchi molto...e ci manca Italia. Ma allora, torneremo presto...(spero!)
Posted by: erin :: the olive notes | July 06, 2008 at 01:04 AM
Beautiful photos.
Posted by: Delina | July 05, 2008 at 11:10 PM
I love the calm of water in the early morning. It's my favourite time to go out in the boat too.
Don't Italians keep saying that gelato can substitute a meal in summer ? Enjoy !
Posted by: Scintilla | July 05, 2008 at 06:30 PM