December 24th, 2006.
On Christmas Eve we went to an old Umbrian hill town nearby. In the chill gathering dusk the soft red brick and terracotta roofs of Citta della Pieve gave out a comforting warmth. The town was strung with white lights running through the narrow streets and the churches were open and filled with candles. The nativity cribs were so intricate and life-like that our children were mesmerised and everywhere smelt wonderful; incense, woodsmoke and candlewax.
In the streets they were roasting chestnuts and mulling wine on huge medieval wagons and handing it out to passers-by. It was the most Christmassy Christmas Eve any of us had ever had, and the strangest.
The best thing I ate today;
Roast Chestnuts - not sure whether it was the man in tights who gave them to me or the cold night air, but these were, by far, the best I've ever had.
Where to get it;
The streets of Citta della Pieve, probably only in December.
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